This chapter is intended to give a small overview of available spare parts for the bodywork and at the same time to show a little of the possible weak points of a 200 and how these can be remedied.

• Rustcare
• Body panel
• Exterior trim and mouldings
• Door handles, locks and hinges
• Glazing
• Lighting
• Rims, wheel covers, hubcaps
• Vehicle cover

The rust prevention

One of the most important things for a long car life is to give the body regular preservation as it ages. The factory underbody protection is regularly "shot at" by road dirt and develops gaps, PVC protection and seam sealants become brittle over time and are infiltrated by water. Thanks to capillary action, water holds on particularly well in folds and, together with the dissolved road salt from the winter, does its destructive work. Even cars as durable as the 240 will be affected at some point if they have been neglected sufficiently.

To prevent this from happening, we have some recommended cavity wax and underseal in our shop, they are also available in spray cans and are easy to apply. If the underbody protection is already damaged or the first rust is present, creep-resistant products such as Fluidfilm are recommended.

For accessible areas on the underbody, mechanical rust removal provides less surface for attack. Such areas can then be treated with products such as Fertan, Brunox or Branho Korrux. This can be followed by sealing with wax or Permafilm.

For all-season vehicles, it is always one of the most important to remove road salt as well as possible in spring after the last use of road salt; a thorough spring cleaning is very important for a long car life.

The body panel

Although the Volvo 240/260 is quite well protected against rust by the factory from the beginning of the 1980s at the latest, it too, like any car with a self-supporting body, has its preferred areas of attack for corrosion.

First of all, of course, there are the classic areas in the splash zone, rear inner and outer wheel arches, sills inside and out, spare-wheel-wells, end-tips and front wings. The rear wheel housing usually rust around the lower edge first. The rear wheel arch also tends to start rusting at the fold in the rear entrance that is not visible from the outside; brown water traces are easy to see here when the door is open.

The sills in particular are prone to rusting around the trim holes, which is usually only noticed when the rust emerges from under the trim. At that point, more action is usually required. Thorough cavity sealing can prevent this, as can cleaning of the surfaces under the moulding and thorough preservation of the holes.

The floor panels tend to be rusty near the sill rebate and thus in the splash area; on cars before 1980, this can be really bad.

The three-part rear end panel is also particularly often affected by rust, usually starting in the hidden area where the panels are dotted together under the rear lights.

The doors usually rust in the corners from the inside out, on late models also under the lower protective strip. Rust here is often a late consequence of shrunken and hardened wiper strips, which is the name of the window well seal on Volvo. Dirt and water can then penetrate the doors to a greater extent and virtually nest in the narrow gaps in the door corners.

The boot lid of the 245 occasionally rusts massively at the lower edge and around the window frame, here too early cavity preservation can prevent worse. Rust on the windscreen frame can be prevented by inserting the seal with a dabbing sealant. Dirt will then no longer get under the seal and friction will also be avoided.

The tailgate of the estate car from 1990 onwards is still available as a new part and can also be installed in older vehicles as a replacement.

It can be a bad omen if the floor in the boot is blistered with rust directly next to the wheel arches, then the side members underneath are usually affected. This can often be seen on the underbody behind the wheel arches; the seam between the floor and the wheel arches is usually swollen. A body repair at this point can be very costly. A good precaution for the rear wheel arches is also additional inner mudguards.

The battery floor should always be checked regularly because of possible leaking battery acid.

Last but not least, the windscreen frame at the front should be thoroughly checked for condition, again repairs are costly, a left and a right repair sheet are available for the corner at the bottom.

External trim parts and mouldings

Trim and protective strips as well as emblems are often a sensitive issue when buying a classic or youngtimer, as often almost none of it is available new anymore.

For the later Volvo 240s from 1984 onwards, however, some original parts are still available. Many trims that are no longer available are now being reproduced, the fastening material such as clips and clips is available almost without exception. Here, in contrast to vehicles from other manufacturers, the supply of spare parts can definitely be described as good. Occasionally, however, this is also quite necessary for good, complete cars; after all, one or the other plastic trim sometimes suffers from signs of fading due to sunlight and becomes unsightly grey.

The front bumper outer skin is also available again as a new part. The fixing bolts corrode out of the aluminium supports of the bumpers from 80 onwards due to contact corrosion, for this problem there are our repair kits bumper supports, these ensure a lasting and durable repair.

Different versions of the radiator grille for vehicles from 1986 onwards are also available new, some still as original parts.

Furthermore, many original decals such as the reflective trim strips for the bumpers, warning symbols or the black Shadowline side decals for the late estate cars are available as new editions. The latter in particular is often very tarnished by sunlight or in some cases no longer exists at all.

Door handles, locks and hinges

The outer door handles or openers are the same on the 200 over the complete build period, they were fitted to the Volvo 140 and 164 from 1972 onwards. They are still available in both black-chrome and black versions as of 1992. With high mileage, they are sometimes very worn and unsightly pimply with age.

The locking cylinders for the doors and tailgate are still available in most cases, even for the early models. Unfortunately, most of these are no longer manufactured to fit the vehicle key and are supplied with new keys. The finished cylinders can also not be disassembled again and adjusted to a different key. In the worst case, there are then three or four keys for one car. Regular maintenance of the lock cylinders, however, can prevent this condition for a very long time; usually the lock cylinders die from disuse, poor maintenance and corrosion.

In the case of door hinges, only the passenger side is currently available, but these too are actually very robust and can last for ages with regular lubrication. However, if they are not maintained, corrosion causes the bearing bolts to become thinner and thinner and the hinge gets play and the door "hangs".

The exterior tailgate hinges in the chrome left and right versions have been available again as replicas for some time, while the late black left and right are still available as original parts. Here, too, regular maintenance prolongs life considerably.

If the window regulators, which are actually indestructible, start to crack unpleasantly or the window even tilts, then the "tuning forks" in the front and rear are usually broken, these are the guides of the rollers in the window regulator cross. These are made of plastic and are only inserted into the window regulator; they occasionally crumble with age.

Glazing

Car glass is not really subject to ageing in normal circumstances, apart from stone chips or similar mechanical influences, one would think. However, at least in the case of laminated windscreen glass, this is not the case: At some point, the film between the two panes detaches from the glass, moisture from the air penetrates into the tiny gap and remains there for eternity due to the capillary effect. Visually, this manifests itself in an opaque milky edge that gets wider and wider over time.

Except that replacing the bonded windscreen is actually very easy, as long as you use the version from 1991. This also fits all older cars and has a circumferential seal on the windscreen and can be easily installed with modern windscreen adhesives. This is an advantage over the older version, which has clips attached to the windscreen and then glued in place for the circumferential aluminium strip, which in turn supports the seal. This seal and the strips are no longer available. Incidentally, it is necessary to work extremely precisely because otherwise the seal will not fit and unpleasant wind noises will occur. Therefore, we strongly recommend the installation of the windscreen from 1991 onwards, even if the original aluminium strip is then omitted.

A rear window is currently only available for estate cars from 1990 onwards, but it can also be fitted to older vehicles if the tailgate is also replaced.

Good, reasonably functioning wiper blades with uncured rubber are not unimportant for the long life of windscreens; properly worn wiper blades can make crude scratches in a windscreen. Also important for reasonable wiper function are the wiper arms. A defined spring force pulls them against the windscreen and prevents them from being lifted off by the airstream. Smooth joints of the arms are also important to ensure that the spring force is sufficient. Occasional oiling of the wiper arm joints is almost always neglected, but maintains their reliable function in the long run. A reliable windscreen washer system is also a good remedy against scratches in the glass. Dirt should not rub dry on the windscreen, clogged windshield washer nozzles should be replaced as soon as possible. In the Volvo 200, however, it is not always the nozzles that are to blame when water stops coming, the check valves in the water pipe are occasionally stuck, and rather rarely the windshield washer pump is defective.

Only a few of the side windows are still available new; here you usually have to resort to second-hand parts. Gaskets for the glazing are also no longer available in large numbers; the wiper strips that are so important for the doors are available as new reproductions. The rear window seal up to 1985 is still available as an original part for saloons and estate cars.

Lighting

Lighting, as with any car, is an issue every now and then on the 240. Headlight reflectors tend to go blind with age, lens lenses get stone chips, brittle seals lead to water ingress. The rear lights become dull and bleach out, water can also break in here and at some point it looks unattractive. At the latest during the general inspection, the poor light output or colour deviations are then criticised.

New headlights for models from 1981 onwards are readily available in the version without headlamp levelling, both original and reproduction. Rarely, however, do these headlamps really have to be replaced completely; they can be completely disassembled and individual parts such as gasket, spreader lenses or reflectors are available. There are currently no replacements for the headlamp levelling system prescribed in Germany from 1990 onwards, but this can be removed by means of a special permit; the vehicle manufacturer will issue a certificate to this effect.

For models with round headlamps up to 1979, a conversion to 7" headlamps is an emergency solution if there is nothing left on the used parts market.

Things look much better for the tail light lenses on older models, even though the original Hella version up to 1978 with orange indicator lenses for the saloons is currently only available in remaining stocks. For Cibie tail lamps, a variant with white indicator glass is also available.

For the station wagons up to 1978 and the later models, just about everything in the way of tail lamp lenses is available, even the indicator lenses come in a number of variants, including such individual items as white indicator lenses or versions for the US market.

Rims, wheel covers, hubcaps

Rims are certainly available for the 200, but if you want original 14" steel rims or original alloy rims like Virgo or Corona for your car, you'll have to look on the used market. We currently have the classic Minilite alloy wheel in 15", it is available in 5.5" and 7" width. Equally recommended is the steel rim 6x15 ET25, all three rims allow you to run readily available cheap tyre sizes. The 185 and 195/70R14 sizes are now no longer available from all tyre manufacturers and are usually quite expensive in decent quality.

Hubcaps and hubcaps are still available as new, including such rarities as the stainless steel cap for the Corona aluminium rim. The classic 15" plastic cap that adorned most Business or Family special editions in the early 90s is available.

Vehicle cover

The fact that a car, when not being driven, ages least when it is parked well protected, is probably clear to anyone who is somewhat concerned with the subject. If old sheet metal is parked well protected from sunlight, road salt, bird droppings and pollen in a ventilated garage, then it can age honourably. There is still the residual risk of dust, which with time and humidity occasionally forms a rather tough layer of dirt on the paintwork. Every car wash puts a strain on the paintwork, causes the finest scratches and washes off some of the protective wax layer.

The Vehicle Cover Car Cover SOFT for inside offers good protection against such layers of dust that form when the vehicle is stationary. It is breathable, fits well with elastic and reliably protects against dust. It comes in various shapes and sizes, not just for the 200 Volvo.

• News: Refreshing the Volvo 200 - The interior
• News: Front bumper cover for Volvo 200 available again
• News: Cover windscreen wiper shaft for Volvo 200/700/900/S90/V90
• News: Repair kit bumper reinforcement for Volvo 200
• News: Front mouldings for Volvo 240
• Seal Headlight lens - Volvo 200 from 1981 onwards
• News: Guide fork lifting rail for Volvo 140, 164 and 200
• Installation guide: Repair kit front bumper bracket Volvo 200 81-
• Installation guide: Wiper Arm, Windscreen Volvo 200
• Installation guide: How to replace the headlight trim moulding Volvo 200

The two bearing bushes of the clutch pedal are parts that perform their service inconspicuously for a very long time. Their existence is usually only noticed when they have stopped working.

If the plastic bushing has fallen apart, the pedal axle has a lot of play and every step on the clutch is accompanied by unpleasant noises. The axle then rubs metal on metal without lubrication, which of course has nasty consequences for the material in the long run.

Quite apart from this, the feel of the pedal also becomes unsightly, it can be moved sideways quite a bit and thus provides a certain insecurity.

If the pedal rubber is worn at the same time and the shoes are still wet from the rain, it can even be dangerous.

The bearing bushings are quite easy to replace, but unfortunately they were discontinued by the vehicle manufacturer a long time ago without replacement. We were asked for them several times, so we had them remanufactured.

The bushings for the clutch pedal are now available again in our shop under the number 1044987.

On the Saab 9000, this bushing is also fitted to the brake pedal.

Fits the following vehicles:

• Saab 9-3 (-2003): all models, gearbox all manual gearboxes
• Saab 900 (1994-): 1998 model, transmission all manual
• Saab 900 (-1993): all models from chassis number J3024362 gearbox all manual transmissions
• Saab 900 (-1993): all models from chassis number J7024482 transmission all manual transmissions
• Saab 9000: all models, transmission all manual

Reference:
8962128

The four-valve six-cylinder engines in the Volvo 960, S90 and V90 have a clearly visible two-part intake manifold. It is divided into the manifold and the injection nozzle housing, and the whole thing is connected with six short hose nozzles for better vibration behaviour.

But these long-lived cars are now at least 25 years old. The rubber of the hoses becomes brittle under the effects of age and temperature, and in the worst case oil leaks have even caused it to swell. At some point, cracks will appear and the engine will draw in secondary air. The engine management system cannot compensate for this because the mass air flow sensor cannot measure it, and individual cylinders usually burn a mixture that is too lean. If the control unit then sets errors because the lambda values are no longer correct, then that is the least of the problems. In the worst case, leanness can lead to burnt valves or holes in the pistons and thus to serious engine damage.

Reasonable engine running or good starting behaviour are then usually long history, and the exhaust behaviour is also already no longer in the norm with a broken connecting piece.

It is therefore self-explanatory that this hose nozzle is an important part for a long engine life. Unfortunately, some time ago this part was no longer available from the vehicle manufacturer overnight.

We did not hesitate for long and ordered a remanufacture. The parts are now available again in our shop under the article number 1025529 for silky smooth six-cylinder running.

Fits the following vehicles:

• Volvo 960: all models, engine all petrol 6 cylinders 4 valves
• Volvo S90, V90 (-1998): all models

Reference:
3531927

The mini car imitates the classic Saab Turbo cockpit. It is also designed for use in winter conditions. The car has adjustable brake and accelerator pedals. The built-in 3.5 hp Honda engine consumes about 1 litre of petrol per hour. This gives it a top speed of 35 km/h. The power is transmitted with a continuously variable transmission. The chain leads to the axle pinion on the left rear wheel. For winter conditions, 2-wheel drive is also possible with drum brakes on the rear axle. The Turbo 006 mini car was recommended for children over 8 years (and for adults).

Roots

There is information to suggest that more were produced, up to 150. These were not manufactured by SAAB, but licensed and sold through some dealers. The price at the time was around $1,900 in 1986. Today the price of these cars is up to 4,000 euros. They were originally manufactured in Finland around 1986 by Lokari - Leo Laine Oy.

Leo Laine Oy Ltd. is a family business that was founded in 1967. The company's business areas include thermoforming of HD polyethylene, PP and ABS plastics, injection moulding and the production of plastic sheets.

Among other things, Lokari also builds inner mudguards for numerous vehicle models. These are made of plastic and do not rust.

More info

There are some interesting reports on the net linked below, as well as the current sales offer from Germany.

• Saabs United: Always A Kid-Saab Turbo 006, re-visited
• Saabnet: SAAB Turbo Junior / Convertible Junior / 006
• ebay Kleinanzeigen: Saab 006 Junior mit Honda 3,5 PS Motor EXTREM RAR
• Flickr: 900 Convertible Junior
• Lokari Leo Laine Oy

Many old carburettor vehicles do not have a very fine fuel filter ex works, at best a finer strainer, sometimes simply nothing at all.

But now and then dirt gets into the fuel. In older vehicles with steel tanks, the inside of the tank will eventually rust because either there was no coating at all or it has dissolved over time. Rust particles come loose and float around in the fuel.

This is not particularly good for the carburettor because smaller particles are deposited in the channels, nozzles and valves and clog them. The abrasive effect of the particles also affects the nozzle pins and needles, and at some point sufficient function is no longer guaranteed. The car drives worse and worse, and in the worst case scenario, the car breaks down.

From my own experience, this always happens at night on a lonely country road and guaranteed without a mobile phone network or houses nearby.

We were recently confronted with such a case, the long unridden 58 Amazon already had a new tank and a new fuel pipe, but there was still some dirt in the carburettor. Of course, it responded to this with some displeasure, it coughed around and temporarily the idle disappeared into nirvana.

After successfully cleaning the carburettor and pump twice, we thought about where we should place a fuel filter. In its original state, there is a rigid pipe from the pump to the carburettor, which is not interrupted anywhere. We didn't want to saw through it, it would no longer be original and in the worst case we would also have chips in the carburettor.

The solution was as simple as it was pragmatic

We replaced the original steel braided line from the pipe to the fuel pump with a hose with the same connections and integrated a commercially available fine filter into it. This can be replaced inexpensively at any time and the whole thing can even be retrofitted without leaving a trace.

To ensure that your car does not break down, the fuel filter retrofit kit is now available in our shop under the number 1088729.

Advantages:

• simple assembly
• protects carburettor and fuel pump
• Filter can be replaced at low cost

fits the following vehicles:

• Volvo 120, 130, 220: model until 1965
• Volvo P1800: model up to 1964, chassis no. up to 12499
• Volvo PV444, 544, P445, P210: Model until 1963, ChassisNo until 385023

• Installation picture: Connectivity fuel pump mechanical, fuel pump glass Volvo 120 130, PV
• Installation picture: Connectivity fuel pump mechanical, fuel pump glass Volvo 120, 130, 220, 140, 164, 200, P1800, PV, P210

For an original look of the dashboard, visual deviations in the switch mounting are self-evident. A hexagonal nut between the beautifully polished round original parts would immediately catch the eye, and at present such conspicuous details even call into question the H-licence plate at the main inspection.

This groove nut was suddenly no longer available without prior notice.

As we already had a similar nut made for the switches in the Volvo P1800, 140 and 164 up to 72 and also the special tool for it, we asked the manufacturer without further ado and were also allowed to send a sample for the other nut. Due to our quick reaction, there was only a very short interruption in availability and we could already give our customers hope with "available again in a few weeks".

Now the time has come, for a beautiful dashboard, the nuts are now available again under the number 1018493. For completely scratch-free fitting, we have the special spanner 1051283. To make sure it's flawless.

SKANDIX No: 1018493
Reference: 654442

Fits the following vehicles:

• Volvo Amazon until 1968
• Volvo 164 up to chassis no. 12417
• Volvo P445
• Volvo PV544, P210

SKANDIX No: 1052200
Reference: 673225

Fits the following vehicles:

• Volvo 140: model until 1972
• Volvo 164: model until 1972
• Volvo P1800: all models

• News archive: Special tool for dashboard nuts
• News archive: Knob switch dashboard for classic Volvos
• News archive: Light switch for classic Volvo until 1972

Enclosed we have prepared some suggestions on how you can give your darling a new shine. Not all the damage mentioned in this chapter will ever occur on a car at the same time, we just want to point out what can be defective and what is available.

The supply of spare parts for many Volvo 240s is much better than for some younger cars from other manufacturers. From our own experience we know that some new parts are not searched for because it seems impossible that they are still available. If in doubt, just ask us!

• Doors
• Pillars and shelves
• Headliner
• Dashboard
• Seats
• Floormats, carpet and boot mats
• Pedals and gearshift

The doors

This often becomes apparent when opening the doors: the storage compartments with clips are often torn or whole parts broken out, sometimes missing altogether. Replacing the tray is quite simple.

The locking buttons are occasionally broken off, their position making the plastic suffer particularly well from sunlight.

The door opener and handle, on the other hand, are usually worn and unsightly from frequent use.

The same applies to the window cranks, on top of which the plastic, which has become brittle, eventually no longer resists use and the crank simply breaks off.

The coating of the armrests in the door eventually cracks due to age and the foam core then usually starts to crumble away massively. This is not only unsightly, the chunks of foam then fly all over the car.

The speaker grilles also often take unkindly to the touch when getting into the car if they are old, often they are only left in fragments.

Under the door panels there is a wax paper protector that prevents draughts and moisture getting to the back of the door panels. If this protective paper is missing, the backing material of the door panels will dissolve over time; it is not permanently waterproof.

Pillars and shelves

Very often the B-pillar trim and the front seatbelt covers and rear are damaged by careless handling of the retracting seatbelt, of course sunlight has also made the plastic brittle here. The older the material, the more sensitive it becomes, especially at cool temperatures.

Carelessness with the feet also often leads to damaged A-pillar interiors or covers of the fuse box.

Parts of the centre console are also not infrequently broken off quickly due to brittle plastic, sometimes all it takes is carelessness during a repair or a rudely moved seat.

Headliner

The vinyl headliner in the Volvo 200 is actually quite robust and insensitive, it is usually only defective due to bad handling during loading for example, sometimes the adhesive comes off. Water ingress can leave unsightly stains, smoking occupants too of course, this is especially true for the white headliner. A new addition to the range is a black headlining for the estate, which was originally only available in the saloon.

The handles on the roof frame in white or black are occasionally broken due to rough use, but usually only the covers of the screws have fallen off.

Dashboard

Cracked dashboards caused by sunlight are a common problem in older cars, but this even affects a whole generation of cars from different manufacturers, not just our Volvos.

For black dashboards, we have a repair solution that is as inexpensive as it is quick in the form of adhesive covers. Complete new dashboards have not been supplied by the vehicle manufacturer for a long time and the dashboard cover is a good alternative to a used part, which would usually also tear in the next few years.

Some replacement parts are available for the glove box, such as the occasional worn lock.

For more information about the engine's operating status, we have had the original additional instrument holder and cover remanufactured, and matching instruments are also available. More accurate information about oil temperature or pressure may well extend the life of the engine.

Seats

Seat cushions are naturally an issue especially at higher mileages, the foam cushion cores get tired and worn through, replacing them is not too difficult. The adjustment of the lumbar support is also more often defective, again repairing it is not particularly difficult, the necessary parts are available (e.g. the handle). Detailed instructions can be found here.

Defective seat heating happens from time to time, often due to incorrect handling. Seats with conventional wire heating mats like the one here should not be subjected to punctual loads, for example with a knee on the seat during car maintenance. Such loads cause the wires to break far sooner than necessary. The heating mats for the seat surfaces are still available as original parts.

Last but not least, the rotary knob of the backrest adjustment has often fallen off at some point, which is also often a result of careless handling.

Floormats, carpet and boot mats

The interior carpet of the 200 Volvo is made of quite robust material which, if treated well, has survived the decades without complaint.

To ensure that a good carpet stays beautiful for a long time, we have various sets of fitted floor mats in different types of carpeting. For winter, we also have the excellent Rensi shell mats, which do not let any moisture through to the car carpet.

The luggage compartment is subjected to completely different stresses depending on the vehicle, treatment and usage profile. If treated well, even an estate car luggage compartment carpet can still look good after thirty years, but certainly the complete opposite is often the case.

For some time now, a first-class wool felt carpet set including spare wheel cover and bag has been available for the boot of saloons. This set enhances any original boot.

Furthermore, we have practical rubber mats for the boot of the estate for tough everyday use.

Pedals and gearshift

Pedals and gear knob are usually the first things that the trained used car buyer notices in the interior. Wear and tear here, if in original condition, is usually an unmistakable sign of high mileage. This is certainly true of a Volvo 240, but well treated it is easily capable of wearing out several pedal rubbers in its lifetime. Worn or missing pedal rubbers are also a defect in the main inspection.

The shift knob also suffers from high mileage, of course, as does the top-inserted cover with printed gearshift gate, somewhat cryptically labelled "symbol row" by Volvo.

The gearshift boot also suffers from a lot of movement over the years. Whether there is only the rubber boot or the leather boot sits above it, eventually both will become cracked and unsightly. If the rubber boot is torn and possibly the foam insulation in the gimbal tunnel above the gearbox neck (the so-called "Lola") is torn and crumbly, then the car will draft uncomfortably and become noisy. These parts are all available, and replacing the "Lola" is a good idea, especially when replacing the clutch.

Finally, we want to mention that most of the clips, screws and fasteners for the interior of the 200 Volvo are still available. Especially such small parts can cause a lot of trouble during a light repair, if they are not available anywhere. To make it easier for you to find them, we have attached small parts in the shop, mostly as accessories, in the right quantity to the things you need to fix.

And should you not find something: Talk to us. Sometimes we also drive and screw 240 ourselves.

• News archive: Refreshing the Volvo 200 - Bodywork outside
• Installation guide: Shelf door Volvo 200
• News archive: Lumbar support Volvo 200
• Installation guide: Seat foam and Lumbar support Volvo 200, 700, 900
• Installation guide: Upholster seat - front Volvo 200
• News archive: Carpet set boot wool felt for Volvo 200
• News archive: Volvo 200 Frame and cover for additional dashboard instruments
• News archive: Lower car radio mounting frame for Volvo 200 available again

The SKANDIX team is looking forward to being accompanied by the students in their daily work for a day. We hope that this will help them a little further in their career choice.

Welcome and have fun!

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